Wednesday, 14 May 2014

Techniques.



So with this being my second time using Film, I felt it would be a good time to get adventurous. Although I had previously had a play about with things like filters and changing the Aperture on the enlarger. I hadn't really started to push any boundaries.

Filters.

So first things first, Filters.
http://www.porters.com/ilford-multigrade-filters-below-the-lens-pack-of-12.html

These clever little things are the early answer to Photoshop. Although you won't be able to use it to put a Hippos face onto a Frog's body, Being able to draw out shadows or create more contrast was once seen as groundbreaking technology.
 https://www.facebook.com/TheGoodLordAbove/photos/pb.157750900979288.-2207520000.1400073466./773771092710596/?type=3&theater

I knew I'd be able to sneak that photo in somewhere! haha

So back to Filters. I use the Ilford Multigrade (as pictured above the Hippofrogamus) These are graded from 00-5. The lower the number on the filter, the brighter the tone is effected. So as a simple rule, 00 would effect Whites or very pale Greys, where 5 would only change the Blacks. I decided to look into the ways I can make test strips with this new skill.

Split Grade Printing.

So not only was this an interesting technique, it also saves money on the very expensive paper used to print and do test strips. Previously I had used one test strip to get the base of my photograph correct (whites and light greys with no filter) then I'd move onto using a 5grade filter. The reason I don't use a filter when getting the base of my Photograph is because I like a really heave contrast between the Blacks and Whites in my Photographs. This would use up a minimum of 2 test strips which doesn't seem much but it all adds up in the end. I came across 'Split Grade Printing', a new challenge and also a little money saver.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7177/6930137883_2b8cdde74b_z.jpg

Above is an example of a split grade print. You can see from the bottom left it's at it's lightest and works all the way up to the darkest in the top right. The image is broken down into a grid making it possible to see black adjustments and white as the both go up the scale. Then just simply pick the square that best suits the tonal range that you're aiming for in your final photograph.

Andrew Sanderson explains in these short Video's:

http://youtu.be/5XgmJk2Fmpw
http://youtu.be/p8H7eLcGUZs

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